DAY 1: Arrival in Togo, Gulf of Guinea –TOGO
Arrival in Lomé and transfer to the hotel.

DAY 2: Lomé, a Cosmopolitan Capital. (70 km, multiples drive 2 hr) – TOGO
Lomé, is the only African capital which has been successively colonized by Germans, British and French. It’s also inhabited by diverse African groups, including descendants of Afro-Brazilians. Bordering another country, Lomé has developed a unique identity reflected in its lifestyle and architecture—a cosmopolitan town on a human scale. We will visit: the central market with its famous “Nana Benz”, women who control the market of the expensive “pagne” (=cloths) sold all over Africa and the colonial buildings of the administrative quarter. We will stop at the largest fetishes market in Africa where an eclectic assortment of all the necessary ingredients for love potions and magical concoctions are to be found. Lomé is also a known trading point for African Tribal Art, handicraft and Contemporary Art.
In a remote settlement, we will attend a Voodoo ceremony: the frenetic rhythm of the drums and the chants of the adepts call in the voodoo spirits who then take possession of some of the dancers. They fall into a deep trance: eyes rolling back, grimaces, convulsions, insensitivity to fire or pain. Sakpata, Heviesso, Mami Water are just some of the voodoo divinities who can manifest. In this narrow village, surrounded by the magic atmosphere of the ceremony, we will finally understand what people mean when they say: “In your Churches you pray God; in our voodoo shrines we become Gods!” Return to our comfortable hotel facing Lake Togo.
Short drive to a charming hotel facing Lake Togo.

DAY 3: “Afro-Brazilian” town, from Agbodrafo to Ouidah (70 km – driving time 2 hr) – TOGO & BENIN
Benin border crossing (Hilla Kodji / Save Kodji).
In a tiny village, we’ll witness Zangbeto mask dances from the Fon culture. These straw-covered masks represent wild spirits. The wearers are part of a secret society whose identities are unknown to outsiders.
The appearance of Zangbeto is an important festivity for the village. Its performance guarantees protection against evil spirits and ill-intentioned people. The spinning movement of the mask symbolises the spiritual cleansing being done throughout the village by Zangbeto. Sometime “miracles” are also performed proving his magical powers.
Drive to Ouidah. Ouidah was conquered by the Dahomey Kingdom during the 18^th century to become one of the main slave ports. Today Ouidah enjoys a unique Afro-Brazilian architecture and a syncretic culture  where the Python Temple face the Catholic Cathedral. The laid-back attitude of the locals blends in harmoniously with the thunder of the distant waves and the rhythm of the drums – a timeless atmosphere well described by Bruce Chatwin in his book “The Vice-Roy of Ouidah”. We visit the Python Temple. In Ouidah, the existence of an alive python cult (Dangbé) – a particular form of voodoo – has been documented since the late 17th century.
We end the visit following the “slave road” to the beach, the door of “no return” where slaves were shipped to the “new world”.

DAY 4: Village on stilts, from Ouidah to Abomey (170 km – driving time 2h30 ) – BENIN
We cross Lake Nokwe with a motorboat to reach Ganvié, the largest and most beautiful African village on stilts in all Africa. The approximately 25,000 inhabitants of the Tofinou ethnic group build their wooden huts on teak stilts. Fishing is their main activity. Ganvié has managed to preserve its traditions and environment despite the long-lasting human presence in a closed setting. The lake is not over-fished. Daily life unfolds in the dugout canoes that adults and children row with ease using brightly coloured paddles. Aboard these canoes men fish, women expose goods at the “floating market”, and small children learn how to swim before how to walk. Once returned to the mainland we drive to Abomey. Arriving in town visit of mysterious caves just discovered. They were probably dug secretly during the multiple slave trade wars between Abomey and neighbouring Kingdoms in 16^th century. If re-opened visit of the Abomey Museum or encounter of the traditional blacksmiths.

DAY 5: Gelede and Egun: African Sacred Masks (Abomey-Dassa 150 Km – driving time 3h30) – BENIN
Early departure for a day rich in genuine cultural experiences. Drive to a settlement where Yoruba and Fon communities live. We will assist to the spectacular Gelede Mask dances. Gelede is a typical Yoruba mask dedicated to Mother Earth. It is celebrated by the whole community to promote fertility of both the people and the soil. Each sculpted mask represents a different character. Only the initiates know the true nature and secrets of the symbolic characters. The masks are brightly painted and move like puppets as they relate myths and moral stories using mime. It is both educational and very humorous. The delighted crowds laugh and clap their hands as they watch in appreciation. It is a fascinating mix of street and magical theatre.
The road will cross a landscape of rock hills to reach a Fulani encampment. The Fulani (also called Peul) are mainly shepherds. The men move around with their herds while the women take care of the camp as well as milk the cows and produce the cheese to be sold at the market. Fulani shepherds are nomadic or semi-nomadic.
The Fulani are famous for their beauty. In fact “Fulani” means “beauty”: beautiful tattoos on their face send messages to the people who understand their visual language; beautiful slender bodies looking at their herds stand as a dot on the horizon; beautiful eyes able to contain so many landscapes contemplated during their migrations to find grazing. Their beauty is proportional to their slowness. Mysterious figures: they seem to be slower than anybody else and at the same time they move more than anybody else. Here is the mystery of a people who learnt how to tame time and space, history and geography. Fulani are the main tribe from African northern Savannah to the edge of the Sahara (the Sahel). Their territories goes from the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea.
Later in the afternoon we attend the Egun masks. They represent the spirits of the deceased and according to the local population they “are” the deceased.
The men wearing the masks representing Egun are initiates of the cult. Dressed in brightly multi-coloured clothing they emerge from the forest and form a procession through the village alleys, leaping towards any foolish spectator who dares to get too close. Nobody wants to be touched by the Egun because he comes from the “other world”. Some people touched by the Egun immediately collapse into a heap on the ground. They are carried in the fetish convent but fortunately they recover quickly.
On arrival the masks perform a kind of bull fight charging the crowd, which is designed to create fear and respect.

DAY 6: Yam Festival (transfers) – BENIN
We join a village to participate to Yam festival.
From libations on new crops to festive lunch and final dances in the afternoon.
Full insight into a village celebration.

DAY 7: HIS MAJESTY , from Dassa to Kara (300 km – driving time 6 hr) – BENIN – TOGO
Day driving to the North, brief stop at Dankoli Shrine in Savalou, then on to meet a tribal King. His Majesty Atchiba II will receive us in a large round building, the room of the Council of the Elders. The King, sitting on the throne, will be surrounded by his notables in traditional costumes. His Majesty rules the Anii peoples settling between the central part of Benin and Togo. After the traditional greeting we will have the privilege to ask information of the king actual rules, the origin of the Anii and their history, directly to the King and the Elders.
Track and road in a hilly landscape will bring us to Togo border at Soudou and to Kara, the “capital” of north Togo, where we will spend two nights.

DAY 8: ADOBE CASTLES, from Kara to Tamberma valley and return  (180 km – driving time 2 + 2  hr) – TOGO
A track will bring us to explore the remote valleys of Tamberma peoples.
During centuries Tamberma, for self-defence reasons, have taken refuge in the of the Atakora mountain region. An environement difficult to access where thanks to the fortified dwellings the inhabitants could flee the attacks from slave traders coming from the islamized northern savannahs. According to anthropologists, their origins are close to the Dogon people of Mali with whom they share an absolute faithfulness to their animist traditions. Their strong traditional beliefs are confirmed by the presence of big shrines – of phallic form – protecting the entrance of their homes. Those fortified dwellings, similar in shape to small medieval castles, are one of the most beautiful examples of ancient African architecture. Their style impressed Le Corbusier, Swiss vanguard architect that described it as «sculptural architecture». In fact, the adobe houses are handcrafted, layer by layer, adding round mud balls and shaping them as per the plan of the house. A kind of sensual gesture mixing strength, care and beauty. With the permission granted by the inhabitants we enter their homes to better understand their way of life. In this border region between Togo and Benin the people building similar fortified adobe houses are called Tamberma or Betammaribe or Somba. The name changes from valley to valley but the architecture and the way of life remain the same. To do not visit two times the same environement we have chosen to dedicate our time to the Tamberma of Togo, that for the sacred baobab protecting animistic shrines, their adobe architecture and the untached environement have been declare UNESCO Word Heritage since 1998. Return to our comfortable base in Kara region.

DAY 9: At the origin of Iron Age, and the Fire Dance – Kara to Sokode (80 km – driving time 3 hrs) – TOGO
Optional: breakfast with the elephants. We will have breakfast in the typical African bushland: two young female elephants will come to visit and enjoy the breakfast with us… These two elephants were saved from poachers that killed their mother when they were cubs. They were adopted by humans that have built a friendly relationship with them. They live near the human settlement free to leave any time. Until now they have decided to remain in the area and have breakfast with the visitors.
Driving in the mountains will bring us to encounter the Kabye ethnic group. Kabye dwellings called «soukala» are composed by several adobe huts joined by a wall. Each dwelling is the domain of a patriarchal family. In the villages located at the top of the mountains, women are potters using an ancestral technique without the wheel, while men are blacksmiths still working iron with heavy stones instead of hammers and anvil as in the early down of Iron Age.
Arrival to Sokode inhabited by Kotokoli and Tem ethnic groups.
After dinner, in the evening, we arrive at the villages of Tem tribe to discover the fire dance. At the centre of the village a large fire lights up the silhouette of the participants. They dance to the hypnotic beat of the drums eventually leaping into the glowing embers, picking up burning coals, passing them over their bodies and even putting them in their mouths chewing and swallowing them. All this without burning themselves or showing any sign of pain. It’s difficult to explain such a performance. Is it matter of courage? Self-suggestion? Maybe it really is the fetishes that protect them from the fire?

DAY 10: Dance of the knights, from Sokode to Kpalimé (290 km – driving time 5 hr) – TOGO  
Cavalry was the military organisation by which in the past the Kotocoli, Islamised tribe coming from the north, imposed their power. They still perform the tradition of horse riding and the “Fantasia” that the North African Arabs taught them, centuries ago. Spectacular event where the Kotocoli knights show a refined mastery of the art of riding. In a surreal medieval atmosphere, warriors in traditional costumes will mount horses with colourful harnesses, to make them dance to the rhythm of the drums and launch them into wild gallops…
We will head southwards, with a stop on the way in Atakpame, a typical African small town built on hills where all the products coming from the nearby forests can be found. Through their skilled work on small weaving looms, men of the region make large brightly coloured Kente fabrics.
We arrive in the area of Kpalimé, a town with a rich colonial past, which is now an important cocoa and coffee trading market. Walk on the hills surrounding Kpalimé, through villages and farms. Under the guidance of a local we will learn the main plants used in traditional African herbalism.

DAY 11: Glass beads, from Kpalime to Koforidua (220 km – driving time 5 hr) – TOGO – GHANA
Ghana border crossing and continuation through the Volta Region.
Border Togo side: Kpadape.
We reach the Krobo tribe, known for its glass beads. Krobo people produce and wear glass beads for ceremonies and aesthetic purposes. We will visit an artisan community of beads producers and even experience the process of making our own bead. The craftsmen have been producing beads following the same long-lasting traditional technique for centuries. They use scrap glass that is grounded into a fine powder. The glass powder is then meticulously made into patterns and placed into hand-made clay moulds covered in kaolin. The beads are melted and then decorated, washed and eventually strung.
A spectacular road between tropical luxuriant forest in a landscape of mountains and hills will bring us to the colourful Ghanaian town of Koforidua.

DAY 12: Ashanti funerals, from Koforidua to Kumasi (200 km – driving time 4h30) – GHANA
Kumasi is the historical and spiritual capital of the ancient Ashanti Kingdom. Ashanti was one of the most powerful kingdoms in Africa. The tribute paid today to the Asantehene (King) is the best evidence of their past splendour and strength and the still strong Ashanti pride. With nearly four million inhabitants, Kumasi is a sprawling town with a unique central market, one of the largest in Africa. All kinds of Ashanti craft (leather goods, pottery, beads, textiles called Kente cloth, etc.) are found here, along with just about every tropical fruit and vegetable.
Lunch at Jofel, twenty years old well-known chain of restaurant in Ghana specialized in a choice of local and western cuisine.
In the afternoon, we participate – if available – to a traditional Ashanti funeral, attended by mourners wearing beautifully red or black togas.
We say “funerals” but it means a “festive” celebration. Thanks to this ceremony, after years the spirit of the deceased return as an ancestor and will protect his family. Relatives and friends gather, socialize, and celebrate his/her memory. The chief arrives surrounded by his court under the shade of large umbrellas while drums give rhythm to the dancers whose intricate moves are highly symbolic in war and erotic meanings.
Drive to the hotel.
It is Saturday night Kumasi is lively town.  At the restaurant of the hotel there will be a live-band. We have also the possibility, after dinner, to experience night life and local music in town.

DAY 13: Golden Kingdoms, Kumasi Obuasi ( 80 km – driving time 1 hr) – GHANA
In the morning continuation of the tour of Kumasi: a visit to the Ashanti Cultural Centre: a rich collection of Ashanti artefacts housed in a wonderful reproduction of an Ashanti house and visit to the Royal Palace Museum hosting a unique collection of gold jewels worn by the Ashanti court with interesting gold regalia. In the afternoon visit to some Ashanti villages with traditional clothing as the Adrinkra hand-printed with traditional symbols and carvings.
In the afternoon drive south to Obuasi.

DAY 14: From the forest to Elmina, the largest and ancient castle in Africa, from Obuasi to Elmina (200 km – driving time 4 hr) – GHANA
A few kilometres north of the coast, in the middle of a rainforest, we will discover the Kakum National Park. This park gives a unique opportunity to observe the forest from above as Kakum has a canopy walk hung high up in the trees. The Kakum canopy walkway is one of the longest and highest rope bridges in the world. Walking between 120 to 150 feet above the ground, you will enjoy an incredible view of the rain forest. At this height, instead of revealing their trunks, the trees offer a breath-taking view of their canopy.
Drive to the coast.
The coast of Ghana (formerly known as Gold Coast) has more than 50 ancient forts and castles, reminiscent of the gold, ivory and slave trade. The first name of Ghana was the Gold Coast and is still the largest producer of gold in Africa.
We reach Elmina Castle (Sao Jorge da Mina), the oldest and largest European building in Africa, erected by the Portuguese in 1482. At different times, the castle has been used as a warehouse to trade gold, ivory, and eventually slaves. The castle we visit today is the result of successive extension works and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Facing the castle, there is a traditional fishing harbour with hundreds of large colourful fishing large canoes. Every day these large wooden pirogues are conducted by skilled fishermen across strong ocean waves and currents, “fighting” to earn a living.
We will board on a boat to discover the fishing harbour from inside and skim the ocean in an unprecedented navigation.

DAY 15: Metropolis, from Elmina to Accra (155 km – driving time 4 hr) – GHANA
In a neighbour town, we will discover the Posuban, colourful shrines of the Asafo companies with multiple full size statues, where the Asafo warriors still pour libations. Asafo where warrior groups of the Fante tribes, active during the slave trade. They still exist with a rule of taking care and protecting their towns and villages.
Drive to Accra.
Accra, the capital of Ghana, has kept its unique identity despite the fast-paced development of the last decades with its modern buildings and large avenues. The luxuriant administrative area, punctuated with elegant villas built during the first half of the 19^th century, reminds us that Ghana was the most flourishing colony in Africa.
We explore James Town historic neighbourhood, inhabited by Ga people. Facing the Ocean it is where native people life, fully unfolds: a village surrounded by the city! Here all economic activities follow very different rules from the ones governing “the city” (business area), just a few hundred meters away. We continue with the visit of the interesting National Museum recently renewed and to a workshop specialized in “fantasy coffins”. These unique handcrafted coffins can reflect any shape: fruits, animals, fish, cars, airplanes…. The only limit being imagination! Started in Accra, these flamboyant coffin designs are by now collected worldwide and exposed in museums as contemporary African art.
In the evening transfer to the airport for the flight out.