SIERRA LEONE, LIBERIA, GUINEA CONAKRY, IVORY COAST, GHANA.
Following the coast and inland of Guinea Gulf, between pristine shores and islands. Experience remotes forests where foreigners don’t arrive: mountains, liana bridges, isolated villages, house of the Bird Men initiates, dancing masks, secrete animistic rituals and diamond seekers. Witness the highest concentration of trade and slave castles of the former Gold Coast.
Participate to the contemporary African vibe: stroll in the intense city life of Freetown, Monrovia, Abidjan and Accra, feel the exciting mix of modernity, culture, music and fusion cuisine.
This program, part of the Grand Expedition across West Africa, will be adventurous and enjoyable. Transport in in comfortable air-conditioned 4WD vehicles and minibuses. On Ocean and lagoons: boats for short sails.
Accommodations: in the capitals, 4 stars hotels with possibility to upgrade to 5 stars. In the inland the best available: mainly new 3 stars hotels with self-contain and air-conditioned rooms. One night at a fix and cosy camp in the luxuriant vegetation of an island.
Day 1 : ARRIVAL Sierra Leone
Transfer by vehicle, boat and vehicle from Lungi international Airport to the Hotel in Freetown.
Dinner and Overnight in Freetown
Day 2: FREETOWN PENINSULA Sierra Leone
Freetown origins: in 1786 the first 308 freed slaves came to Sierra Leone from America where they have fought in the independence war on the side of the British, after having lost the war the British sent them to Sierra Leone. Few months after their arrival, the newcomers were starving, got new and unknown diseases and fight with the locals, who hardly stand them. Few years after during a Napoleonic war, Freetown has been attacked by seven vessels of the French navy and destroyed. Few survivors escape on the pirogues sent by… the slaves’ traders… From 1807, due to the abolition of the slave trade by the British Empire, the ships of the slave’s traders caught by the British navy freed the slaves in Sierra Leone.
In 1808 Freetown became the capital45 of the first British colony in tropical Africa. At that time Krio, or ex slaves, were more than 50.000 creating an elite who put pressure on the colonial administration for a better education. In 1845 was built Fourah Bay the first University in west Africa. During Colonial time Freetown was known as the “Athens of West Africa”. Drive along the coast at the slopes of the Freetown peninsula mountains… only the yellow of the beaches divide the green of the lush vegetation from the blue of the ocean. The country has been named after these mountains, the mountains of lion. A local boat will bring us to Banana island.
Day 3: BANANA ISLAND Sierra Leone
Full day dedicated to circumnavigating, explore, walk and discover this pristine island with mountains in large primary forests, villages and remote beaches. For the more adventurous a half day walk to explore the forest or continue the circumnavigation of the island. Lunch picnic, dinner and overnight at our unique fix camp.
Day 4 BUNDO: FEMALE MASKS Sierra Leone
Brief navigation, to joint our vehicles and departure in direction north east.
In most parts of Africa, the masks are male’s prerogative, however among the Mende people and neighbours populations the masks Bundo are a female’s domain and they have crucial role in the initiation rites. We reach a tiny village to assist at the exit of these masks, an event that calls for the participation of a colourful crowd.
Day 5: DIAMONDS Sierra Leone / Liberia
Diamond seeking is as addictive as gambling at least, the possibility of finding a “fortune” can become true for most lucky. Diamonds have played an important role in the recent troubled history of the country and the quantity and quality of “stones” to find is important. We will take a track to reach a village with huts made by clay and straw. After asking permission to the chief some villagers will take us to the site where we can meet the diamonds’ seekers.
The local person will explain us the technics of artisanal mining and “sand washing”. A spectacular road in the forest will bring us to the Mano River the natural border with Liberia. After the border formality we will continue to reach Monrovia in the evening.
Day 6: LIBERIA: THE LAND OF FREEMEN Liberia
Liberia is the only African country which has never been either a colony or a protectorate; Liberia was founded by Krio, the freed slaves who came back to Africa from America, for this reason was named “Liberia”. Krio are 5% of the population and they are the main actors of the economy and politics, they are considered the creator of the Nation and of the modern economy . 80% of the population speaks the Krio language, a sort of American English “Pidgin”.
Our ocean-view hotel is the best starting point to visit town. Freemasonry had a great impact on the history of Liberia and Krio culture, visit of the Grand Masonic Temple imposing building. A symbol of Monrovia is what left of the Ducor Palace Hotel, inaugurated in 1960 was one of the first five stars in Africa. Located on a rocky hill in the highest point of Monrovia, dominate the whole town and the gulf. The hotel hosted social events and parties of the African political elite at the time of independence. In the large swimming pool facing the ocean Idi Amin used to swim caring his gun at the belt while his friend Miriam Makeba was singing. After the civil war the building was looted several times, the hotel is now abandoned and closed, but seeking the right permission, we may be able to visit it. In 2008 the government made a deal with Ghaddafi to rebuild this hotel, however the project, as many other Libyan development projects, never came to conclusion thanks to the war that Europe and America made to overthrow Ghaddafi.
The building of the National Museum his himself a display of Krio traditional architecture, inside we discover a large collection of ancient masks and ritual objects and a photographic show about the civil war which took place between 1989 and 2003. Old colonial buildings, stone Krio churches will be also part of this intriguing town visit.
Day 7: AFRICAN WILD FORESTS Liberia
Early morning departure for a long day of driving to the northern part of Liberia and to the greatest forest region in Guinea Conakry. Crossed the border we will drive through larges rubber plantation (hevea) to reach Nzerekore and Macenta in a hilly and luxuriant landscape. After dinner we live the hotel to join a village and participate to a spectacular dance: the masks will live the forest and dance at the light of a large fire….
Day 8: BIRD MEN, TOMA MASKS & LIANA BRIDGE Liberia
A small track in the lush vegetation will bring us to a remote village to assist at one of the more spectacular, and les known, sacred dances of West African forests. The Bird Men with the face painted in Kaolin and totally dressed in feathers belong to a special initiation, that has passed secretly from father to son during centuries. Believed to have magical powers that can make him invisible, the bird men are during tribal wars, the best messengers, able to cross the enemy lines. Tom-tom drummers and all the village will participate to the event. Toma localy called Loma have also different masks living in the sacred forest…
This region hides many secrets. The liana bridges are masterpiece of an authentic “tribal technology” and can measure 70-meter length. They are built exclusively with vegetal materials, as wood and lianas without the use of nails or rope nor other materials foreign to the forest. Only the initiated can harvest the liana and wood and leave it in the forest, is believed that a powerful spirit will build the bridge in one night. During the preparation of a new bridge needier women nor not initiated are allowed in the forest, to guarantee the secrecy of this “magic technology”.
Day 9: PRIMATES Liberia / Ivory Coast
Early morning departure from Nzerekore, the main settlement of the Forest Region. We reach Bossou village in time for a walk to discover a forest, where a group of chimpanzees (Pan Troglodytes) lives. The inhabitants consider them the reincarnation of their ancestors and therefore hunting them is forbidden. The chimpanzee are constantly monitored by the researchers and therefore they are easy to approach.
The road will bring us to Ivory Coast border. When mount Tonkpi with its pic comes into view we are close to our destination. The small town of Man, surrounded by 18 green mountains is the capital of the We, Dan and Guéré ethnic groups known for the mask considered between the masterpiece of African Art. We will spend two nights at our hotel in Man.
Day 10: DAN MASKS Ivory Coast
Full day dedicated to Man region. In a nearby tiny village, masks will emerge from the forest towards us. In the cosmogony of the Dan people, there is a creator god that communicates with humans only through its intermediaries, the masks: during the mask dance the distance between the human and the spirit worlds disappears, the cosmic and the social orders are restored, and gratitude is expressed to the gods and the ancestors. Dan Masks are one of the finest tribal mask thanks to the delicate balance of shapes that symbolize beauty.
Man, market is an important market with villagers coming from the region and from the neighbours countries. It will be possible to find a wild choice of handicraft and, with some luck, authentic tribal masks and ritual objects.
Day 11: MAGIC TRADITIONS Ivory Coast
Full day dedicated to discovering masks and magic traditions.
Only 4×4 vehicles drive at remote villages in the forest to encounter the Guere ethnic group, where the arrival of foreigners is a rare event. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-_vPJqtxyA We will discover the powerful Guéré Mask dances, and (if we are lucky) the rare “Jugglers” performances. Girls initiatory Juggling is an ancient tradition now vanishing and we have been able to discover one of the last villages where is still practiced.
If Dan’s masks are considered among the more refined example of beauty and aesthetic, Guéré masks are known for the powerful and rough aspect. Return to the main road to reach the town of Daloa in the evening.
Day 12: CATHEDRAL IN THE SAVANNAH Ivory Coast
Day of drive in south-east direction. We continue our journey across coffee and cocoa plantation, dotted only by small villages. Ivory Coast is the world’s main cocoa producer, the second is Ghana and together, they represent more than half of the world production.
In a village we attend the Zaouli dancing masks. Zaouli is a traditional dance of the Guro tribe. The Zaouli mask, was created in the 1950s, probably inspired by a girl named “Djela Lou Zaouli”. However, stories on the origins are varied, and each mask can have its own symbolic history. The uniqueness of Zaouli dance is the fine and sophisticated movement of the legs and the fits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDYN2D4MvOM&list=PL3fWcyxhXJem5SB-CrAPiBevgyzVhSKWV&index=44
Afternoon arrival to Yamoussoukro, the country’s formal capital since 1983, is the native village of Houphouët-Boigny, the first President of the Ivory Coast. Here the Ivorian dream of the 1970s and 1980s has come true, the dream of a country that, despite its shortage of major natural resources, has create the largest economy in French west Africa.
We visit the Basilica of the Virgin of Peace, inspired of St Peter’s in Rome, is the largest building of Christianity on earth, unique the high colourful glass windows. We see wide boulevards where the few cars try to avoid the big potholes, Zebus and chickens. The huge government buildings, the lofty hotels up to 14 floors high, and even an artificial lake inhabited by crocodiles have a feeling of abandoned.
Day 13: ABIDJAN, SKYSCRAPERS AND LAGOONS Ivory Coast
Motorway departure for Abidjan that we will reach late morning. Beyond the lagoon, the “plateau” (the City District) is growing very fast, not horizontally as in most African towns but vertically, with its large modern buildings and skyscrapers. Not much land is available and the little available must be continually recovered from the waters of the Ebrié Lagoon. The modern City District is defined to the west by the harbour and its endless queues of people waiting for a public boat, and to the east by the silhouette of Saints Peter & Paul Cathedral. Chaotic traffic is the negative result of the fast-economic development of this country that after the civil war has some time reached the 6% of the GDP. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpvcvYRQbhA
31st December, great gala dinner and dances at the hotel, celebrating new year in the typical Abidjan’s way!
Day 14: GRAND BASSAM Ivory Coast
Drive to Grand Bassam: old Town built on a sand bank between the lagoon and the ocean. It was the former capital of the French Ivory Coast colony and now a maritime leisure resort for the Abidjanese. Thanks to its calm avenues shaded by tall trees, large bougainvillea and well-preserved colonial buildings, Grand Bassam has a magic atmosphere. The old post office is a jewel of colonial architecture. The Costume Museum, in the former governor’s palace, with its large outer staircase is a true architectural gem and its unique collection of tribal costumes, masks, ornaments and ethnographic photographs gives an interesting perception of the country history and culture. Continuation in direction East to the small town of Aboisso.
Day 15: GOLD COAST Ivory Coast / Ghana
Early departure, drive to the Ghana border. In Axim visit fort St Antonio built by the Portuguese in 1515 at the estuary of Ankobra River in a region rich in Gold. The coast of Ghana is unique in whole Africa for the concentration of ancient castles and forts. More than 80 fortifications where built by Europeans during three centuries, to trade in gold, ivory and slaves. The name of this region, from the first Portuguese navigator that discover it navigators in 15th century to the independence in 1957 was named Gold Coast from the abundance of the gold traded.
Day 16: ELMINA UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE Ghana
Full day dedicated to discovering ancient slave trade castles and syncretic animistic shrines.
After a stop at Cape Coast we will visit Elmina Castle, the oldest European building in Africa. Sao Jorge da Mina was erected by the Portuguese in 1482. At different times the castle has been used as a warehouse to trade gold, ivory, and eventually slaves. The castle we visit today is the result of successive extension works and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Facing the castle, the fishing harbour with hundreds of colourful and large fishing wooden canoes. In the old town and neighbours, we will discover the Posuban, shrines of the “Asafo companies” where the Asafo “warriors” still pour libations. The alleys in the old town have a unique atmosphere, bringing us back long time before the colonial era when Elmina was the first place of fix exchanges between Europeans and Sub Sahara Africa.
Day 17: ACCRA “THE CAPITAL” Ghana
The capital of Ghana has maintained its special identity despite the fast-paced development currently underway in this intriguing African vibe. We explore the old of James Town area, inhabited by the local population known as the Ga. Our tour ends with the visit of a workshop where they specialize in building fantasy coffins. These special handcrafted coffins can take on any shape: fruit, animals, fish, cars, airplanes…. the only limit being imagination!
Day Rooms available and transfer to the airport.
UNIQUE DEPARTURES: This itinerary is part of West Africa Grand Expedition from Dakar to Cotonou.
EXPEDITION LEADER: Alberto Nicheli, TransAfrica founder, has been travelling in West Africa since 1975. He has led more than a hundred expeditions in West Africa and sixty-four Sahara expeditions, including solo crossing of the desert, ethnological research on Tuareg and rock art. He has organized the logistics of a documentary film for Discovery Channel on the Caravans of the Niger and has assisted in numerous research projects on West Africa with Angela Fisher and Carol Beckwith from National Geographic, as well as in different television programs on West Africa. He has an expertise in Tribal Art and security in West Africa.
EXPLORATORY ITINERARY: This itinerary is an expedition; participants must be flexible and ready to enjoy the unique encounters but also some unexpected situations that are part of the “African Experience”.
Guinea Conakry, Liberia, Ivory Coast: single-entry visa needed, Ivory Coast E-Visa is not valid for entry by land borders, needed visa from an embassy.
Sierra Leone: visa available at the border (cost 100 USD).
Ghana: Single entry visa required. The visa must be obtained at the embassy competent for the country of residence.
Note: Guinea Conakry, Liberia and Ivory Coast has diplomatic representations in Dakar, that can issue visas.
VACCINATIONS: Yellow fever – compulsory; malaria prophylaxis highly recommended. Cholera at the moment don’t required, please check prior departure.
LUGGAGE: due to the exploratory itinerary, please to be contained in 20 kg (45 Lbs.) suggested duffle bags.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: Not included. Mandatory for medical assistance, repatriation, material and physical damages.
TRANSPORT: mainly 4×4 vehicles, minibuses, short boat excursion.
MEALS: lunches: cold meals (picnics or sandwiches and fruit) or at restaurants. Dinners: at the hotel restaurants (pre-select menu). Included one bottle of water each day during the visits.
NOTICE: The itinerary is designed to discover fascinating places, where the visit of a foreigner sometimes remains an exceptional event. Participants need to be cooperative, tolerant and flexible to fully enjoy their tour and appreciate the unique nature, as well as the spontaneous hospitality of the local populations, African magic and mystery, its metaphysics, ceremonies, life philosophies and religious beliefs that people are willing to share with us. Itineraries, visits and overnight accommodations are subject to change or modification by the organizer due to force majeure and can be modified or adapted to local conditions.